Celine vs. (Old) Céline & What will Phoebe Philo do next
Larisa
Celine vs.
(Old) Céline
What will Phoebe Philo do next?
The initial reactions to Hedi Slimane’s first show for Celine, in late 2018, reminded the industry of what society expects of fashion.
Slimane, whose experience lies in men’s wear, is said to most likely steer Celine into his preferred direction of rock’n’roll and love of skinny models — branching the house out into menswear, couture and fragrances. But it’s 2019 and high fashion is at the hands of a very opinionated public who mourns Phoebe Philo’s woman—centred touch.
Hedi Slimane’s first men’s collection for Celine
“Slimane doesn’t seem particularly interested in addressing the mundane issues in a woman’s life. […] His designs are about his vision. They are not welcoming. — A Provocative Designer Has Just Blown up a 70-Year-Old Brand. But to What End?” by Robin Givhan
Céline Spring Summer 2013 Campaign
Creative director of Céline for a decade, Philo had brought the brand back to life, reflecting through her work her personal views on life and becoming an icon for critics and the public — redefining what women want to wear with minimalist aesthetics and clean colour palettes.
“I felt it was time for a more back-to-reality approach to fashion, clothes that are beautiful, strong, and have ideas, but with real life driving them.” — Phoebe Philo
Céline Spring Summer 2018
Céline Spring Summer 2018
Since Philo has stepped down from Celine after the Pre—Fall 2018 collection, not stating any future career plan, rumours have circulated around her next move. After Karl Lagerfeld’s passing on February 19, she was thought to be next in line for Chanel.
In an era of change for big fashion houses — brought on by political issues that have become important in today’s society (like Celine banning the use of exotic skins), Philo seemed like a good fit for carrying on the legacy of a brand that was at originally for—women by—women. She would have perhaps not disappointed current feminist views through her creative role within the brand, as Lagerfeld was no stranger to feminist and ethical controversy.
Quite quickly though, Virginie Viard, Chanel’s studio director since 1987 and Lagerfeld’s right—hand—woman, was named the next creative director of Chanel, marking the beginning of a new are for the famous house, carrying a legacy that will always live on.
